From the DENIM BRANDS TO WATCH Interviews from J'N'C Magazine N°70 / 4-2017, Interviews: Thorsten Osterberger & Cloat Gerold
Creative director and designer Stefano Angelico will present his debut collection with Braves & Company in spring 2018.
Why, of all fabrics, do you believe that denim is such a perennial favourite in the fashion world?
Denim is a vibrant and dynamic fabric that has the ability to adapt to your lifestyle. The same fabric can reveal many different aspects with different washes. It’s not directly connected to trends so it’s easily adapted to any season and styles.
As a designer, how do you deal with the rich heritage of this fabric?
I’m always mindful of the tradition and the history of denim when designing my styles. It’s as if there were unwritten rules to observe and a code of honour to be respected.
Do you orientate yourself on classic designs, draw your inspiration from vintage models or do you try to completely reinvent the patterns?
For me, it’s a process that includes many aspects. I strive to connect the past with the future, keep in mind the tradition and the experience of tailor-made craftsmanship, to create contemporary garments, creating new details and functional solutions with care. My patterns are handmade following the old tradition, but up-to-date in terms of all the contemporary elements and fits.
Which silhouettes dominate your collections? What direction do you see the trends taking in the next few years?
To be honest, I don’t really follow trends much with my collections. But I like to create characters. For me, it’s important that my styles dress men of this era but remain current despite the passing of time. My shapes are smooth, practical, comfortable and voluminous with tighter contrasts on the tops. I think fashion will gain structure, volume and functional details in the future.
Do you prefer robust, rough or soft, flowing materials?
Both of them; I combine both rigid and soft materials when creating my styles.
Do you notice a big difference between the trends the press enthusiastically picks up on and what ultimately works in terms of sales?
This is a story that is repeated every season and even more so in recent years, ever since we started talking about fast fashion. The mainstream consumer doesn’t even have the time to adapt to a fashion trend and interpret it before being introduced to a new line to follow. But basically, the consumer is looking for something discrete, not excessive and extravagant, even if they let themselves be charmed by marketing. At the end of the day, the consumer can only manage to follow and adapt a part of the trends that are being proposed.
Do you have any special plans for the upcoming season? What’s on your to-do list?
I want to release my debut collection and launch my website.
What characterises your designs?
I have been working as designer, patternmaker and developer for many years, starting out in my family company Fratelli Angelico at the end of the eighties and creating many collections. Their appearance has evolved a lot, but I believe that the common thread that characterises them is my mentality of making timeless garments.
What is your label’s USP?
Selected pieces for eclectic people.
What’s your target group and where can they buy your designs?
My customers are everyone who appreciates quality and timeless goods, wants to be unique and is self-confident. The garments will initially be sold online; my website and collection are works in progress.
How will you be marketing your collection in the future?
There are so many marketing tools out there these days. I will try to enter the online market, also through social media. What I hope most is that my customers will discover me by word of mouth. I believe that the most important advertising is when your customer talks about you so you don’t need to.
Your personal favourite jeans are by…?
I follow many premium denim brands so it’s hard to choose the best. My favourite pair of jeans at the moment is by Japanese brand 45RPM, which I found at the flea market. I restored them and wear them almost every day.
