From the DENIM BRANDS TO WATCH Interviews from J'N'C Magazine N°70 / 4-2017, Interviews: Thorsten Osterberger & Cloat Gerold
Ukranian designer Ksenia Schnaider presented her debut denim collection in 2016. She’s inspired by the utility, history and codes of clothing.
Why, of all fabrics, do you believe that denim is such a perennial favourite in the fashion world?
Denim is practical and comfortable and perfect for almost for any occasion (depending on the styling, of course).
As a designer, how do you deal with the rich heritage of this fabric?
I work with new fabrics and also a lot with vintage jeans, which we wash, unstitch and rework into new garments. We have dresses, jeans, trench coats, skirts and shorts made from old jeans. The process is very challenging but exciting.
Do you orientate yourself on classic designs, draw your inspiration from vintage models or do you try to completely reinvent the patterns?
I really love denim classics and that’s where I find my inspiration. I try to reinvent classic models and make them look modern and fresh. At the same time, I develop my own silhouettes, unique cuts and finishing. Just have a look at our Rainbow Jeans, Demi-Denims or Denim Fur to understand what I am talking about.
Which silhouettes dominate your collections?
Two years ago I created the new Demi-Denims silhouette – trousers mixed with skater shorts and skirts all in one. And since that time, I’ve been developing this cut in every collection – we have Demi-Denims slim, Demi-Denims Asian fit, Demi-Denims dungarees and Demi-Denims mixed colour. For our SS18 collection I created high-tailored jeans with finishing and details similar to classic trousers. I really love their fit and look.
Do you prefer robust, rough or soft, flowing materials?
We work exclusively with 100% heavy cotton for our Ksenia Schnaider collections.
Do you think press hype and the work of influencers yields better results in terms of sales?
Yes, definitely! If the press and street-style pictures are good, then we achieve good sales. That’s why it’s very important for emerging brands to work with editors and influencers, especially when you are creating something absolutely different, new or a little bit crazy.
Do you have any special plans for the upcoming season? What’s on your to-do list?
I am planning to expand our brand all over the globe. We are currently very popular and generating good sales in South Korea, Japan and Taiwan but we are planning on becoming popular in Europe and the USA as well. We are also negotiating a capsule collection for a well-known big brand. I really hope it will all work out!
What makes your current designs different to those of your first collection?
When we started out, our collections were pretty minimal and clean and now we use bright colours, prints and irony.
What is your label’s USP?
We constantly reinvent clothing and different approaches to it – not for the sake of reinvention itself, but in order to elaborate, perfect and find new forms. The Ksenia Schnaider team is driven by the desire to find the essence of clothing and the opportunity to transfer these simple, but complex meanings to our customers. We rework vintage items, work with new fabrics and create our own unique prints and cuts.
What’s your target group and where can they buy your designs?
Our collections can be found in more than 40 stores all over the world including Selfridges London, Desperado Tokyo, Corso Como Seoul, Shopbop etc. We also have our own online store (shop.kseniaschnaider.com) and deliver worldwide. Our customers are fashion-forward and open-minded.
How will you be marketing your collection in the future?
After successful sales in Asia in countries including Japan, Korea and Taiwan, we are now aiming at breaking into the American and European markets. We are currently working with key players like Selfridges and Shopbop.com and hoping to be represented in more and more top stores each season.
Your personal favourite jeans are by...?
Ksenia Schnaider, I wear them every day.
